Jewish Cuisine in Hungary

Jewish Cuisine in Hungary

A Cultural History with 83 Authentic Recipes

  • Auteur: Koerner, András
  • Éditeur: Central European University Press
  • ISBN: 9789633862742
  • Lieu de publication:  Budapest , Hungary
  • Année de publication électronique: 2019
  • Mois : Décembre
  • Pages: 432
  • Langue: Anglais

Winner of the 2019 National Jewish Book Award in the category of Food Writing & Cookbooks.

The author refuses to accept that the world of pre-Shoah Hungarian Jewry and its cuisine should disappear almost without a trace and feels compelled to reconstruct its culinary culture. His book―with a preface by Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett―presents eating habits not as isolated acts, divorced from their social and religious contexts, but as an organic part of a way of life.

According to Kirshenblatt-Gimblett: “While cookbooks abound, there is no other study that can compare with this book. It is simply the most comprehensive account of a Jewish food culture to date.” Indeed, no comparable study exists about the Jewish cuisine of any country, or―for that matter―about Hungarian cuisine. It describes the extraordinary diversity that characterized the world of Hungarian Jews, in which what could or could not be eaten was determined not only by absolute rules, but also by dietary traditions of particular religious movements or particular communities. 

Ten chapters cover the culinary culture and eating habits of Hungarian Jewry up to the 1940s, ranging from kashrut (the system of keeping the kitchen kosher) through the history of cookbooks, the food traditions of weekdays and holidays, the diversity of households, and descriptions of food and hospitality industries to the history of some typical dishes. Although this book is primarily a cultural history and not a cookbook, it includes 83 recipes, as well as nearly 200 fascinating pictures of daily life and documents.i

  • Cover
  • Title page
  • Table of Contents
  • PREFACE by Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett
  • INTRODUCTION
    • 1 KASHRUT
    • The Ritual Slaughter of Animals
    • The Koshering of Meat at Home
    • Separating Dairy and Meat Dishes
    • Pareve (Neither Meat, nor Dairy) Dishes and Ingredients
    • Kosher Wine
    • Kosher Milk and Dairy Products
    • Giving up Kashrut
    • Non-Jewish Views of Kashrut
  • 2 ASHKENAZI JEWISH CUISINE
    • Ashkenazi and Sephardi Jewry
    • A Short History of Ashkenazi Cuisine
  • 3 HUNGARIAN JEWISH CUISINE
    • Seventeenth-Century Sephardi Influence
    • Nineteenth-Century Gastronomic Writers
    • Handwritten Recipe Collections
    • Nineteenth-Century Cookbooks
    • Early Twentieth-Century Pioneers of Jewish Ethnography
    • A Turn-of-the-Century Recipe Competition
    • Food and Increasing Secularization
    • Cookbooks in the First Half of the Twentieth Century
    • Post-1945 Cookbooks about Prewar Cooking
    • Some Characteristics of Hungarian Jewish Cuisine
    • Food and Hungarian Jewish Identity
    • Hungarian Influence on the Jewish Cuisine of Other Countries
  • 4 REGIONAL AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCES
    • The Northeastern Regions and the Galician/Polish/Ukrainian Influence
    • Western Hungary and the Austrian/German Influence
    • TheNorthwestern Regions and the Bohemian/Moravian/Slovakian Influence
    • The Southern Regions and the Serbian/Croatian Influence
    • Transylvania and the Romanian Influence
  • 5 WEEKDAYS AND HOLIDAYS
    • Dishes for Weekdays
    • Shabbat Dishes
    • Dishes for the Holiday of the New Moon
    • Dishes of Rosh Hashanah
    • Yom Kippur—Dishes for Before and After the Fast
    • Dishes of Sukkot
    • Dishes of Simchat Torah
    • Dishes of Hanukkah
    • Purim Dishes
    • Dishes for Pesach
    • Shavuot Dishes
    • Dishes for the Dairy Days and for the End of the Tisha B’av Fast
    • Dishes for the Birth of a Boy
    • Cakes for the First Day of Cheder
    • Cakes to Celebrate the First Exam in Cheder
    • Dishes for Bar Mitzvah
    • Dishes for Engagements and Weddings
    • Dishes for Mourning Ceremonies
  • 6 HOUSEHOLDS
    • Rural and Small-Town Households
    • Keeping Geese
    • Urban Households
    • Canning
    • Maids
    • The Role of Cooking in the Lives of Jewish Women
    • Kitchen Furniture and Equipment
    • Dishes, Tableware, and Tablecloths
    • Ritual Plates, Cups, and Table Linen
  • 7 DOMESTIC HOSPITALITY AND BANQUETS
    • Dinner and Supper Guests, Home Parties, and Salons
    • Banquets and Celebratory Meals
    • Rules of Good Manners at Meals
  • 8 JEWISH PLACES OF HOSPITALITY
    • Kosher Restaurants and Boardinghouses
    • Coffeehouses, Coffee Shops, and Pastry Shops
    • Jewish Soup Kitchens
  • 9 FOOD INDUSTRY AND TRADE
    • Kosher Food Factories
    • Kosher Wine Producers and Merchants
    • Food Shops and Street Vendors
    • Markets
  • 10 CHARACTERISTIC DISHES
    • Challah
    • Gefilte Fish
    • Walnut Fish
    • Boiled Beef
    • Chopped Eggs
    • Cholent
    • Kugel
    • Ganef
    • Stuffed Goose Neck
    • Tzimmes
    • Flódni
    • Kindli
    • Hamantasche
    • Matzo Balls
    • Chremsel
    • Goose Giblets with Rice Pilaf
    • EPILOGUE
  • APPENDICES
    • 1. Jewish Cookbooks Published in Hungary before 1945: An Annotated Bibliography
    • 2. Authors of the Handwritten Recipe Collections Used in This Book
    • 3. List of Quoted Recipes
  • Notes
  • Selected Bibliography
  • Sources of Illustrations
  • Index of Personal Names
  • Index of Subjects
  • Index of Foods
  • Acknowledgements
  • Copyright page

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER

By subscribing, you accept our Privacy Policy